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Ettore Roesler Franz
and Bygone Rome
via Giulio Romano
St.Paul's Gate


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Borgo Angelico




Borgo is Rome's 14th old district, which once included also the Vatican, before the latter became an independent state. Its medieval structure consists of a small number of long and straight streets, crossed by a larger number of narrow lanes; Borgo Angelico [1], the street whose end is featured in the painting, was one of the former.

Borgo was born as a group of hostels and inns, just outside the old city of Rome and next to St.Peter's basilica, where pilgrims, merchants and students coming from many European lands dwelt.


During the early Middle Ages, a number of steady communities developed here; the largest one was that of the Saxons. So when in 1586 this area became a part of Rome, it was named after the Saxon word Burg (i.e. borough) which these immigrants used to call the district with.
On the same occasion, since in time the inhabited land had expanded well beyond the old wall, a second one was built to enclose a larger area. Where the wall ended, next to the Vatican, stood a gate, Porta Angelica [2], seen in the painting, on the far right.

By the end of the 19th century Rome's population rapidly grew, and so did the district, with the making of new 5- or 6-storey buildings in place of the old slums. The old wall, as well as the gate, were taken down for space reasons, and also to avoid any hindrance to the increasing traffic; only a few fragments once belonged to foundation stones are still visible today, below the present ground level (photograph, bottom right).
In 1932 the Italian government signed a concordat with the newborn Vatican state, which among other issues defined the new national boundary: where once houses stood [3], a wall was built (see photograph) in order to enclose the new independent territory. Meanwhile the number of buildings on the Italian side kept growing, turning what once was simply grassland beyond Rome's boundary into a new busy district.
Some of the old lanes, such as vicolo delle Grazie [4] completely disappeared. The overall look of the place has deeply changed, and the same Borgo Angelico, without its wall, has turned into a large square. But faraway in the background, above the wall and inside the Vatican territory, Belvedere Palace [5], is still clearly recognizable in both views.




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