Curious And Unusual - Rome's Ghetto

	~ Curious And Unusual ~ - 7 - Rome's Ghetto The Ancient Jewish District

Rome's Jewish community claims to be the oldest in the world, as it is known to exist since the late 2nd century BC, when slaves were brought here from Palestine, under roman rule. During the early years and throughout the Middle Ages, the roman Jews had no problems in living side by side with the local Christian population; their main activity was trade. But hard times came during the late Renaissance, when the Church of Rome, following the Protestant schism, gave a sharp turn of the screw against the non-Christian population. The newly elected pope Paul IV decided to enclose the whole Jewish community within a very small enclosed area, and issued strict discriminatory laws. This is not the only repressive measure this pope is remembered for: in 1559 he decreed the Index of Forbidden Books, a long list of titles among which were any written works by non-Catholic authors, regardless of their subject, any edition of the Bible considered unorthodox, any book about astrology and fortune-telling.	detail of the Ghetto in a map by G.B.Falda (1676), featuring the three early gates (¡), the ones opened by Sixtus V (¡) the Porch of Octavia (à) and the church of St.Gregory (ß); a sixth gate was built in c.1830 on the spot marked â

Rome's Jewish community claims to be the oldest in the world, as it is known to exist since the late 2nd century BC, when slaves were brought here from Palestine, under roman rule.
During the early years and throughout the Middle Ages, the roman Jews had no problems in living side by side with the local Christian population; their main activity was trade. But hard times came during the late Renaissance, when the Church of Rome, following the Protestant schism, gave a sharp turn of the screw against the non-Christian population. The newly elected pope Paul IV decided to enclose the whole Jewish community within a very small enclosed area, and issued strict discriminatory laws. This is not the only repressive measure this pope is remembered for: in 1559 he decreed the Index of Forbidden Books, a long list of titles among which were any written works by non-Catholic authors, regardless of their subject, any edition of the Bible considered unorthodox, any book about astrology and fortune-telling.

detail of the Ghetto in a map by G.B.Falda (1676), featuring
the three early gates (¡), the ones opened by Sixtus V (¡)
the Porch of Octavia (à) and the church of St.Gregory (ß);
a sixth gate was built in c.1830 on the spot marked â

Furthermore, it was forbidden to read the authorized Italian translation of the Bible for any woman and for those who did not know Latin (a specific permit had to be asked for this purpose!).

The neighborhood where the Jews were confined was known as the Ghetto, It comprised the few narrow streets located between piazza Giudea (no longer there) by the church of Santa Maria del Pianto, the remains of the Porch of Octavia (for further details see The Rioni, Sant'Angelo, and Ettore Roesler Franz and Bygone Rome, page 5) and the river bank by the Tiber Island.
Following the bull issued in 1555 by Paul IV, entitled Cum nimis absurdum (literally "when too much is absurd", actually "when enough is enough"), huge doors were built in order to physically close the area which the 3,000 members of the Jewish community should have lived in, which in fact is mentioned in several texts of those days as 'the enclosure of the Jews'; its surface all together was about 8 acres. What it looked like to the eyes of an observer is described scantily but rather precisely by an octave of Giuseppe Berneri's dialect poem Il Meo Patacca, written in the late 1600s (see also the Language and Poetry section):

Il Ghetto è un loco al Tevere vicino,
Da una parte, e dall'altra a Pescaria;
È un recinto di strade assai meschino,
Ch'è ombroso, e renne ancor malinconia.
Ha quattro gran portoni, e un portoncino;
Il dì s'apre, acciò el trafico ce sia,
Ma dalla sera inzino a giorno ciaro,
Lo tiè inserrato un sbirro portinaro.

The Ghetto is a place located next to the Tiber
On one side, and to the Fish-market on the other;
It is a rather miserable enclosure of streets,
As it is shady, and also saddening.
It has four huge gates, and a small one;
During daytime it is open, to let people out,
But from the evening until morning has broken
It is kept locked by a porter guard.

The dwellers were allowed to leave this neighborhood only during daytime, while from dusk till dawn the entrances to the district were closed by huge doors, watched over by guards, whose wages the same community had to pay for.

old houses in via di Sant'Ambrogio: the street was annexed to the Ghetto around 1830	Originally the gates were three, but only a few decades later, when pope Sixtus V had the Ghetto slightly enlarged towards the river, their number rose to five. Neither the gates nor their doors exist any longer, but old maps still feature them quite clearly. Those who were left outside after the closing time were to face the implacable papal law court. Initially, the Ghetto's only source of running water was a public fountain located in piazza Giudea, outside the boundary, thus the hygienic conditions inside the district were terrible. A smaller fountain was built inside the enclosure only many years later. Furthermore, being one of the lowest spots in Rome, the risk of being flooded by the nearby Tiber was another constant danger.

old houses in via di Sant'Ambrogio: the street
was annexed to the Ghetto around 1830

Originally the gates were three, but only a few decades later, when pope Sixtus V had the Ghetto slightly enlarged towards the river, their number rose to five. Neither the gates nor their doors exist any longer, but old maps still feature them quite clearly. Those who were left outside after the closing time were to face the implacable papal law court.

Initially, the Ghetto's only source of running water was a public fountain located in piazza Giudea, outside the boundary, thus the hygienic conditions inside the district were terrible. A smaller fountain was built inside the enclosure only many years later. Furthermore, being one of the lowest spots in Rome, the risk of being flooded by the nearby Tiber was another constant danger.

Outside the Ghetto all Jewish men had to wear a piece of yellow cloth on their hat, while women had to wear a yellow veil, or a scarf of the same colour, so to be easily recognized. They could not own any property; the houses where they lived belonged to non-Jews, who rented them to members of the community at prices kept under control by means of a law named Ius Gazzagà. As a custom, the rental contract was inherited by the lodger's heirs, so that most houses were occupied by the same families for many generations. The Jewish population, though, kept growing at a very fast rate, also because Jews from other cities within the Papal State were forced to flee to Rome: by the end of the 17th century there were about 9,000 people living in the Ghetto. The enclosure had to be slightly enlarged, and a fourth door was added.	via della Reginella, where the sixth gate of the Ghetto was fitted

Outside the Ghetto all Jewish men had to wear a piece of yellow cloth on their hat, while women had to wear a yellow veil, or a scarf of the same colour, so to be easily recognized.

They could not own any property; the houses where they lived belonged to non-Jews, who rented them to members of the community at prices kept under control by means of a law named Ius Gazzagà. As a custom, the rental contract was inherited by the lodger's heirs, so that most houses were occupied by the same families for many generations.
The Jewish population, though, kept growing at a very fast rate, also because Jews from other cities within the Papal State were forced to flee to Rome: by the end of the 17th century there were about 9,000 people living in the Ghetto. The enclosure had to be slightly enlarged, and a fourth door was added.

via della Reginella, where the sixth gate of the Ghetto was fitted

Among the jobs that most members of the community lived upon was the rag-seller, who bought and sold rags going around with a cart with the typical cry aèo!, and the carpenter (the Jewish cabinet-makers, whose skills were renowned, were hired also by noble families).

the Carmel Temple, where the 'compulsory preaches' were held; at the back is the balcony of Palazzo Costaguti (16th century)	Besides these activities, there were also richer members of the community, who ran businesses such as hiring elegant clothes, or lending money, but had to comply with the aforesaid strict laws, as any other. However, particular laws, that often changed when a new pope was elected, restricted the number of activities that the Jews were officially allowed to practice. In 1572, Gregory XIII decreed that on Saturdays, the adult members of the community should attend the so-called compulsory preaches, sermons whose purpose was to convert the Jews to the Christian religion; they were held in the small church of St.Gregory (now facing the huge synagogue, built in 1904), and by the tiny Carmel Temple, in via Santa Maria in Publicolis. It is said that some people used to plug their ears with wax, not to listen to the hated preaches; but those who fell asleep would be kicked awake by the papal guards, who watched over these functions.

the Carmel Temple, where the 'compulsory preaches' were held;
at the back is the balcony of Palazzo Costaguti (16th century)

Besides these activities, there were also richer members of the community, who ran businesses such as hiring elegant clothes, or lending money, but had to comply with the aforesaid strict laws, as any other. However, particular laws, that often changed when a new pope was elected, restricted the number of activities that the Jews were officially allowed to practice.

In 1572, Gregory XIII decreed that on Saturdays, the adult members of the community should attend the so-called compulsory preaches, sermons whose purpose was to convert the Jews to the Christian religion; they were held in the small church of St.Gregory (now facing the huge synagogue, built in 1904), and by the tiny Carmel Temple, in via Santa Maria in Publicolis. It is said that some people used to plug their ears with wax, not to listen to the hated preaches; but those who fell asleep would be kicked awake by the papal guards, who watched over these functions.

The façade of St.Gregory's church still bears an eloquent dual language inscription, in Latin and Hebrew, referring to a passage by prophet Isaiah: « I stretched my hands all day to an unbelieving people that keeps following a road which is not good, pursuing its own ideas, to a people who, right in front of me, continuously provokes my wrath ».

Only within the Ghetto's boundary, the Jews were allowed to follow their own religion; a building of the district housed five schools, one for each Jewish rite whom the local population belonged to.

Besides the discriminations, the Ghetto's dwellers had to endure several humiliating traditions and rituals. For instance, during the celebrations for Rome's Carnival, usually held in February, a number of elderly Jews was forced to race along the central high street, while the crowd mocked them, and threw all sorts of trash; this custom was later turned into a horse race. Rome was not the only city where in those years the Jewish community suffered discrimination: similar laws were issued also elsewhere in Italy (Venice, Bologna, Ferrara, etc.); already during the Middle Ages, expulsions had been enforced in countries such as Spain, France, England. In fact, the same word Ghetto likely sprang from the Jewish enclosure in Venice, the first one ever established (1511), which was located next to a foundry, and was called campo gheto ("slag field") after the by-product of metal purification that was gathered there.	vicolo Costaguti, almost a tunnel, leads to an inner court

Besides the discriminations, the Ghetto's dwellers had to endure several humiliating traditions and rituals. For instance, during the celebrations for Rome's Carnival, usually held in February, a number of elderly Jews was forced to race along the central high street, while the crowd mocked them, and threw all sorts of trash; this custom was later turned into a horse race.

Rome was not the only city where in those years the Jewish community suffered discrimination: similar laws were issued also elsewhere in Italy (Venice, Bologna, Ferrara, etc.); already during the Middle Ages, expulsions had been enforced in countries such as Spain, France, England. In fact, the same word Ghetto likely sprang from the Jewish enclosure in Venice, the first one ever established (1511), which was located next to a foundry, and was called campo gheto ("slag field") after the by-product of metal purification that was gathered there.

vicolo Costaguti, almost a tunnel, leads to an inner court

Furthermore, not all popes and members of the papal establishment showed themselves cruel to the Jews. Rome's bishop and governor Annibale Rucellai forbade any mistreatment by issuing the bill shown below, dated January 25, 1595, whose text read as follows:

BILL That forbids anybody to harass or to annoy the Jews. In order to put an end to the scandal and inconvenience caused by the trouble and the mockeries endured by the Jews every day, the most Illustrious and Reverend Annibale Rucellai, Bishop of Carcassonne, and of the Holy City of Rome and its district, Governor-General, and Vice-chamberlain, by the express wish of his Holiness the Pope, by means of this Bill orders, prohibits and commands that no person, of any rank or social position, may dare in any way to harass or cause hindrance of any kind, either direct or indirect, to any Jew, either male or female, boy or girl, nor mock them, touch them, nor give them offence, either with words or in fact, either during the day or at night-time, either openly or secretly, under the penalty for Christian men of three tugs of the rope, and for women and children of the lash, and to the additional punishment they would be given if they had offended a Christian, and declares that the masters will be held responsible for their servants, the fathers for their children, the teachers for their students, and the sentence will be strictly carried out, and the most Reverend Governor reserves the right of increasing or reducing the sanction, according to the seriousness of the offence and the persons involved, and everybody beware not to disobey.	(click to enlarge the picture)

BILL
That forbids anybody to harass or to annoy the Jews.
In order to put an end to the scandal and inconvenience caused by the trouble and the mockeries endured by the Jews every day, the most Illustrious and Reverend Annibale Rucellai, Bishop of Carcassonne, and of the Holy City of Rome and its district, Governor-General, and Vice-chamberlain, by the express wish of his Holiness the Pope, by means of this Bill orders, prohibits and commands that no person, of any rank or social position, may dare in any way to harass or cause hindrance of any kind, either direct or indirect, to any Jew, either male or female, boy or girl, nor mock them, touch them, nor give them offence, either with words or in fact, either during the day or at night-time, either openly or secretly, under the penalty for Christian men of three tugs of the rope, and for women and children of the lash, and to the additional punishment they would be given if they had offended a Christian, and declares that the masters will be held responsible for their servants, the fathers for their children, the teachers for their students, and the sentence will be strictly carried out, and the most Reverend Governor reserves the right of increasing or reducing the sanction, according to the seriousness of the offence and the persons involved, and everybody beware not to disobey.

(click to enlarge the picture)

However strict the bill may appear, the last line meant that the rich or the noble could have easily escaped a judicial sentence. Furthermore, when a new pope was elected the attitude of the Church of Rome towards the Jews could easily change, sometimes radically.

via del Portico d'Ottavia on one side still has a row of ancient houses (15th-16th centuries)	When in 1798 Rome fell to Napoleon's troops, the French administration opened the Ghetto. But when the papal authority was restored, in 1815, Pius VII had the doors of the enclosure closed again at night-time. The only concession made by the following pope, Leo XII, in the early 1830s was to decree a further extension of the Ghetto's boundary, which included via di Sant'Ambrogio and via della Reginella (top left corner of the opening picture); the latter street was fitted with an additional gate. But the fanatical pope also enforced stricter laws against the Jews, by effect of which they were no longer allowed to own any private property and had to get rid of whatever they owned in the shortest possible time. For this reason, many members of the community fled from Rome. The Ghetto was then shortly opened again, during the 5 month Roman Republic period (February - July 1849); on this occasion, the walls and the gates of the enclave were taken down. But when Pius IX returned, he ordered that the Jewish community should live again in the Ghetto, despite it no longer had a physical boundary.

via del Portico d'Ottavia on one side still has
a row of ancient houses (15th-16th centuries)

When in 1798 Rome fell to Napoleon's troops, the French administration opened the Ghetto. But when the papal authority was restored, in 1815, Pius VII had the doors of the enclosure closed again at night-time. The only concession made by the following pope, Leo XII, in the early 1830s was to decree a further extension of the Ghetto's boundary, which included via di Sant'Ambrogio and via della Reginella (top left corner of the opening picture); the latter street was fitted with an additional gate. But the fanatical pope also enforced stricter laws against the Jews, by effect of which they were no longer allowed to own any private property and had to get rid of whatever they owned in the shortest possible time. For this reason, many members of the community fled from Rome.
The Ghetto was then shortly opened again, during the 5 month Roman Republic period (February - July 1849); on this occasion, the walls and the gates of the enclave were taken down. But when Pius IX returned, he ordered that the Jewish community should live again in the Ghetto, despite it no longer had a physical boundary.

The virtual doors of the hideous enclosure definitively fell only after the fall of the Papal State (1870), when the new Italian administration let the roman Jews free to leave this area, and gave all citizens the same civil rights, regardless of their religious belief.

ancient Roman fragment on a 15th century house	Towards the end of WW II, though, the Ghetto had to pay one more heavy tribute in human lives, during Rome's occupation by the Nazi troops. Among the grimmest episodes of those days was the rounding up of 1022 members of the Jewish community, who were then deported to Auschwitz, most of whom never returned home. This happened on October 16, 1943. Today several members of the community no longer live here, while many others still do, although they all consider the Ghetto their common meeting point, on special occasions and religious festivities.	↑ above: via di Sant'Ambrogio

the synagogue	A few restaurants in the neighborhood keep alive Jewish-roman cooking, a very old tradition which blends typical Jewish dishes with roman ones, such as the famous fried artichokes. Instead the so-called "fagottari", customers who used to carry their own food in a bundle (fagotto), thus ordering only wine, are no longer seen, as this custom has died out. Here also the language was influenced by the dwellers' original culture. The Jewish-roman dialect, once very common among the members of the community, was not very different from the standard dialect spoken in other parts of Rome, but had many different words, clearly of Hebrew origin.	↓ below: the hall of a private 16th century house

Today this dialect can be still sometimes heard in the Ghetto's lanes, although it has been widely replaced by the official Italian language. A laudable attempt to keep this dialect alive is being made, by means of some cultural initiatives, such as theatre plays by playwright Alberto Pavoncello. A long-awaited edition of sonnets by Crescenzo Del Monte (1868-1935), the only Jewish-roman dialect poet, has also been released in 2006.

In the early 1900s, shortly after the reopening of the Ghetto, many of its original houses were taken down, partly due to their rather bad condition, but also according to the town-planning policy of those days, which aimed at widening several streets for the benefit of the growing vehicle traffic, yet sometimes causing great damage to the original architecture of many sites. Therefore, the local street plan of the district has deeply changed, especially in the part that stretches along the riverside, but the lanes of the inner part still maintain their magical atmosphere, a very particular blend of history, architecture and tradition.