Roman Monographs - Obelisks (part II)

~ Roman Monographs ~

Obelisks

part II

EGYPTIAN OBELISKS FROM THE ISEUM ˇ SERAPEUM
Also a number of small Egyptian obelisks are found in Rome: they come from an Iseum ˇ Serapeum, i.e. a temple of Isis and Serapis.

The cult of these Egyptian divinities (often combined, being Isis the bride of Serapis) already existed in Rome before the conquest of Egypt in 31 BC, but its popularity grew especially afterwards, during the early imperial age, and was actively practised up to the late 4th century. Besides several Egyptian immigrants, such as slaves and workers, particularly women belonging to the high class were fascinated by the new cult, almost as a trendy fashion. But also several emperors, among whom Claudius, Nero, Vespasian and others, got interested in this religion and gave it some kind of contribution. It was the third emperor, Caligula (AD 37-41), who ordered the making of the large Iseum - Serapeum where the obelisks described in this page come from. Domitian (AD 81-96) had a strong interest in Egyptian cults; in some statues he was depicted as a pharaoh, and used to refer to himself as dominus et deus ("lord and god"), whereas Roman emperors were usually worshipped as gods only after their death. He had an obelisk dedicated to himself carved in Rome (see page 3) and two more obelisks were erected in his honour in Benevento (southern Italy).	priestess of the cult of Isis

The cult of these Egyptian divinities (often combined, being Isis the bride of Serapis) already existed in Rome before the conquest of Egypt in 31 BC, but its popularity grew especially afterwards, during the early imperial age, and was actively practised up to the late 4th century. Besides several Egyptian immigrants, such as slaves and workers, particularly women belonging to the high class were fascinated by the new cult, almost as a trendy fashion. But also several emperors, among whom Claudius, Nero, Vespasian and others, got interested in this religion and gave it some kind of contribution. It was the third emperor, Caligula (AD 37-41), who ordered the making of the large Iseum - Serapeum where the obelisks described in this page come from.
Domitian (AD 81-96) had a strong interest in Egyptian cults; in some statues he was depicted as a pharaoh, and used to refer to himself as dominus et deus ("lord and god"), whereas Roman emperors were usually worshipped as gods only after their death. He had an obelisk dedicated to himself carved in Rome (see page 3) and two more obelisks were erected in his honour in Benevento (southern Italy).

priestess of the cult of Isis

In Rome rhe cult of Isis and Serapis legally coexisted with the official religion, and so did other minor cults, some of which were of local origin (Bacchus, Diana, Mars, etc.) and some were imported from the Middle East, such as the cult of Mithra.

Serapis, in Greek-Roman iconography	Not all Romans were happy about the cult that came from Egypt. The first emperor, Octavian Augustus, disliked it, although he tolerated it; instead his successor Tiberius had a temple taken down and its priests sentenced to death. Also the Senate officially banned this cult more than once, but its popularity was so great that within a few years the bans were dropped. Around 40 BC, the largest temple in Rome dedicated to Isis and Serapis was built in the eastern part of the Campus Martius plains, just off the Pantheon (today this site belongs to Pigna district). The temple was richly furnished with large statues and other decorations, partly coming from Egypt, such as small obelisks, and partly carved in Rome. Further temples dedicated to these gods were a Serapeum built by emperor Caracalla (c.AD 200) on one side of the Quirinal Hill, today corresponding to the gardens of Palazzo Colonna (see Trevi district), whose remains were still standing up to the mid-late 1500s.

Serapis, in Greek-Roman iconography

Not all Romans were happy about the cult that came from Egypt. The first emperor, Octavian Augustus, disliked it, although he tolerated it; instead his successor Tiberius had a temple taken down and its priests sentenced to death. Also the Senate officially banned this cult more than once, but its popularity was so great that within a few years the bans were dropped.
Around 40 BC, the largest temple in Rome dedicated to Isis and Serapis was built in the eastern part of the Campus Martius plains, just off the Pantheon (today this site belongs to Pigna district). The temple was richly furnished with large statues and other decorations, partly coming from Egypt, such as small obelisks, and partly carved in Rome.

Further temples dedicated to these gods were a Serapeum built by emperor Caracalla (c.AD 200) on one side of the Quirinal Hill, today corresponding to the gardens of Palazzo Colonna (see Trevi district), whose remains were still standing up to the mid-late 1500s.

Another large Iseum - Serapeum, stood on the southern side of the Esquiline Hill since the 1st century BC, just off the Colosseum. It had been originally entitled to Isis alone, but then the dedication to Serapis was added during the early empire. Since the 1st century, the whole 3rd district of the ancient city was named Isis et Serapis after this temple. After the fall of the empire, when all such places of worship collapsed and disappeared, likely during the early Middle Ages, the few surviving parts that were not reused as building material ended up buried under rubble and earth. Many centuries later, four small obelisks, all belonging to the temple in the Campus Martius, were unearthed and relocated in different spots of the city, where they can be seen today (except one of them, that was later on moved to Florence).	remains of the Temple of Isis and Serapis by the Esquiline Hill

Another large Iseum - Serapeum, stood on the southern side of the Esquiline Hill since the 1st century BC, just off the Colosseum. It had been originally entitled to Isis alone, but then the dedication to Serapis was added during the early empire. Since the 1st century, the whole 3rd district of the ancient city was named Isis et Serapis after this temple.

After the fall of the empire, when all such places of worship collapsed and disappeared, likely during the early Middle Ages, the few surviving parts that were not reused as building material ended up buried under rubble and earth. Many centuries later, four small obelisks, all belonging to the temple in the Campus Martius, were unearthed and relocated in different spots of the city, where they can be seen today (except one of them, that was later on moved to Florence).

remains of the Temple of Isis and Serapis by the Esquiline Hill

Among other findings from the same temple are the bust popularly known as Madama Lucrezia (see Rome's Talking Statues), a large marble foot and a small figure of a cat, all located in Pigna district.
Today no trace of the buildings they once decorated is still extant, except very few fragments.

5 ˇ MATTEI OBELISK

alternative name: Villa Celimontana obelisk
On one side of the Coelian, one of the legendary seven hills over which Rome was founded, spreads Villa Celimontana, once part of a villa belonging to the rich Mattei family. Its small mansion is now the see of the Italian Geographic Society, while the gardens have been turned into a public park, where a small number of roman remains, such as fragments of capitels, altars, statues, sarcophagi, lay scattered.

the Mattei obelisk, the only one with a bronze sphere	Here, in the middle of a small round area, stands an Egyptian obelisk that at a first glance may appear much taller than its true height. The 'real' obelisk is only the top part of the monument, incribed with hieroglyphs, among which is the cartouche of king Ramses II. Measuring only 2.70 m (or 9 ft), this is actually the shortest among Rome's spires. It is mounted on a plain extension, of a lighter colour, with no decorations. Including also the base, the monument reaches the overall height of 12.24 metres (40 feet). The first known location of this obelisk was the Capitolium Hill, by the convent adjoining the church of Santa Maria in Aracoeli, which is about 200 metres (or yards) off the site where once the large temple of Isis and Serapis could be found. Here the obelisk may have been raised in the early 1400s.	the real obelisk is very short

In 1535 the convent's porch was refurbished, and on this occasion the spire was taken down and laid on the ground. Half a century later, in 1582, Rome's Senators (i.e. the city administrators) gave the monument to Ciriaco Mattei, a nobleman and an art collector, who had it moved to his villa on the Coelian Hill, and stood it in a garden in front of the mansion. In fact, the obelisk is the only one in Rome that still bears a globe on its pyramidion, instead of a cross or papal insignia.

This monument is also remembered for a rather odd and gruesome accident, occurred in 1820. the former Villa Mattei, now Villa Celimontana, → in an etching by Giuseppe Vasi (mid 18th century) In that year, the villa was purchased by prince Emanuele Godoi. The obelisk had become unsteady, and the new owner decided to move it to a different spot of his estate, where it stands now, providing it with a new base, whose inscription celebrates the refurbishment.

This monument is also remembered for a rather odd and gruesome accident, occurred in 1820.

the former Villa Mattei, now Villa Celimontana, →
in an etching by Giuseppe Vasi (mid 18th century)

In that year, the villa was purchased by prince Emanuele Godoi. The obelisk had become unsteady, and the new owner decided to move it to a different spot of his estate, where it stands now, providing it with a new base, whose inscription celebrates the refurbishment.

	The operation took place with great pomp, and a public ceremony was held on this occasion. While the latter was in progress, and the obelisk had already been suspended above its base, ready to be lowered into place, one of the workers in charge was probably removing some gravel from the stand, when the ropes that held the heavy monument suddenly snapped. The enormous mass came down, amputating the poor man's hands ...which should still be there, crushed under the obelisk! ← Ť mind your hands...ť too late!

The operation took place with great pomp, and a public ceremony was held on this occasion. While the latter was in progress, and the obelisk had already been suspended above its base, ready to be lowered into place, one of the workers in charge was probably removing some gravel from the stand, when the ropes that held the heavy monument suddenly snapped. The enormous mass came down, amputating the poor man's hands ...which should still be there, crushed under the obelisk!

← Ť mind your hands...ť too late!

6 ˇ MINERVA OBELISK

A small obelisk about 5.47 metres in size (18 feet) stands in front of Santa Maria sopra Minerva's church, behind the Pantheon, resting over the elephant statue drawn by Bernini, popularly known as 'Minerva's chick' (see the Curious and Unusual section). Including the base, the overall size of the monument is more than doubled, measuring 12.69 m (41.5 ft).

the obelisk over the elephant drawn by Bernini

The spire dates back to the 6th century BC. It was taken to Rome from from Sais (northern Egypt) where it had been stood by pharaoh Apries or Hophra, the son of Psamtik II.

It was found in 1665, buried in a garden belonging to the Dominican convent by the church, very close to the site where the Temple of Isis and Serapis once stood. The ruling pope in those days, Alexander VII, had it raised in this square, in 1667.		coat of arms of Alexander VII

On that occasion, the eight-pointed star from the coat of arms of the pope's family (Chigi) was placed at the top.

7 ˇ MACUTEO OBELISK

alternative name: piazza della Rotonda obelisk

the obelisk that stands in front of the Pantheon	Almost adjoining the previous obelisk stands a slightly taller one, 6.34 m or 21 ft in height, located on the opposite side of the Pantheon, i.e. before the Roman building's front, resting above a late Renaissance fountain (overall height of the monument: 14.53 m or 47.5 ft). The spire is much older than the fountain that supports it, than the Pantheon and than the previous obelisk, as well: its hieroglyphs mention pharaoh Ramses II, which makes its dating set back to the 13th century BC.	the obelisk by San Macuto's church (mid 1500s)

It was found in 1374 by the church of San Macuto, not far from the Pantheon, on the same site where the Temple of Isis and Serapis stood; it was unearthed and raised by the same church, where it stood up to 1711.

two different cartouches bearing the name of Ramses II	Once the people used to call it 'the spire of mammautte', after a corruption of the church's name. Still today it is referred to as the Macuteo, a name that maintains a reference to its original location. When it was moved to its present location, a special base decorated with a group of rocks was also added to the fountain; this composition was very likely inspired by Bernini's Fountain of the Rivers (see next paragraph), finished about half a century earlier, whose innovative design had been very successful among the people. Alexander VII added his coat of arms to the base; one of his devices, a star, is also featured by obelisk's top element, identical to that of the previous obelisk.	the top element with the device of pope Clement XI

8 ˇ DOGALI OBELISK

A fourth spire, curiously topped by a star, can be seen on the former site of the Baths of Diocletian, in front of the Roman National Museum. It was the last obelisk to be found in Rome, unearthed by the famous archaeologist Rodolfo Lanciani in 1883, by the old site of the Iseum-Serapeum. By that time, the Papal State had already fallen: a star was chosen as a top element for the monument.

the obelisk by the Baths of Diocletian	The obelisk is 6.34 m (29 ft) tall. It features hieroglyphs that mention Ramses II along its shaft, and rests over a small monument in memory of the Italian soldiers who fell in the Battle of Dogali (Ethiopia, 1887), not long after the spire was found. It was originally located in the large square in front of the central Termini train station, where it was set in the late 1800s. In 1924, due to alterations, both the spire and the memorial were shifted some 200 metres (or yards) off the square, to the spot where they presently stand.	the cartouche of Ramses II can be seen on the shaft

the spire (far right) facing the old Termini station in the early 1900s

9 ˇ VILLA MEDICI OBELISK

A twin of the previous obelisk was once kept in the garden of Villa Medici, the see of the French Academy in Rome, located on top of the Pincio Hill. The beautiful mansion was developed into its present shape by cardinal Ferdinando de' Medici (late 16th century), who was fond of ancient art, and whose collection included several important archaeological items, among which the obelisk.

After his death, the villa was scarsely cared for by his heirs, and ended up being bought by the French government. The ancient items of the collection were moved, including the obelisk, which was taken to Florence in 1788: it is still there, in the Boboli Gardens. A copy of the spire was carved in the 1800s, for Villa Medici, as a replacement. In 1737, a very similar obelisk, which was never erected in Rome after having been unearthed, was given by cardinal Albani, a nephew of pope Clement XI, to the hometown of the latter, Urbino, where it stands now.	the copy of the obelisk in Villa Medici's garden

After his death, the villa was scarsely cared for by his heirs, and ended up being bought by the French government. The ancient items of the collection were moved, including the obelisk, which was taken to Florence in 1788: it is still there, in the Boboli Gardens. A copy of the spire was carved in the 1800s, for Villa Medici, as a replacement.

In 1737, a very similar obelisk, which was never erected in Rome after having been unearthed, was given by cardinal Albani, a nephew of pope Clement XI, to the hometown of the latter, Urbino, where it stands now.

the copy of the obelisk in
Villa Medici's garden

introduction general and historical notes	part I Egyptian obelisks	part III Roman obelisks	part IV the Obelisk of Axum modern spires