THE POPES' WALLS - part III

In the mid 17th century, Urban VIII (Maffeo Barberini, pope from 1623 to 1644), thought that Rome was in need of a new set of walls along the Janiculum.

the last part of the 16th century wall, ending with Sangallo's bastion on the other side of the hill	The hill itself already provided a natural defense, by stretching as a stronghold on the western side of the city. But the old wall boundary built by Aurelian almost fourteen centuries earlier was in pretty bad condition, and would have no longer granted a solid defense. The new wall was drawn along a straight line on the western side of the hill. Also in part III the whole length of the wall will be followed on its outer side; the starting point is from the site of Porta Cavalleggeri [map ref. 8]; those who reached Porta Santo Spirito with the previous part of the tour can walk back here through the tunnel.

The hill itself already provided a natural defense, by stretching as a stronghold on the western side of the city. But the old wall boundary built by Aurelian almost fourteen centuries earlier was in pretty bad condition, and would have no longer granted a solid defense.
The new wall was drawn along a straight line on the western side of the hill.

Also in part III the whole length of the wall will be followed on its outer side; the starting point is from the site of Porta Cavalleggeri [map ref. 8]; those who reached Porta Santo Spirito with the previous part of the tour can walk back here through the tunnel.

On the right side of the tunnel's entrance, opposite the round tower, the road starts climbing again, parallel to the last few metres of the wall built by Pius IV. By the first corner, a large coat of arms of Pius V (diagonal bands) hangs high above; the wall makes a bend and crosses the Janiculum, reaching Sangallo's bastion (mentioned at the end of part II, see also the map of the walls) on the opposite side of the hill. The structure built in the 1600s by Urban VIII originates on this spot: in fact, it comes into sight slightly further.
The road is rather narrow: usually not many cars drive along this way, but it is a good thing to be constantly careful of the traffic.

There are no particularly interesting features along this first stretch. Nevertheless, what makes pleasant the walk, that winds around the many arrow-shaped bastions, is the genuine look of the set of walls, still rather close to the original shape: for those who passed by this site four centuries ago, the visual effect would have been not too different.

la vecchia casa costruita sul bastione	You'll see no gate along this stretch, but a few service passages, as the ones found along the wall that surronds the Vatican on its western side (see part II page 1) In recent times (1950s-60s), modern buildings have risen along the steep side of the hill; how high the Vatican stands above the surrounding area can be easily understood by the fact that the ground level by the wall matches the 5th floor of the nearby housing. Some 300 metres/yards ahead, as soon as you notice an old house built over a bastion, the modern buildings stop following the wall's course, replaced by trees and other vegetation, and the road becomes less steep. The most pleasant part of the walk starts from here.

You'll see no gate along this stretch, but a few service passages, as the ones found along the wall that surronds the Vatican on its western side (see part II page 1)

In recent times (1950s-60s), modern buildings have risen along the steep side of the hill; how high the Vatican stands above the surrounding area can be easily understood by the fact that the ground level by the wall matches the 5th floor of the nearby housing.

Some 300 metres/yards ahead, as soon as you notice an old house built over a bastion, the modern buildings stop following the wall's course, replaced by trees and other vegetation, and the road becomes less steep. The most pleasant part of the walk starts from here.

Garibaldi's monument	Very soon the towering monument dedicated to Giuseppe Garibaldi comes into sight through the trees on the other side of the wall, and you may happen to see also people leaning from the wall's edge: in fact the ground level on the inside is as high as the walls, having been considerably raised when the area became a public park (a description can be found in The Rioni section, Trastevere). Immediately before the last bastion, on the side of the road, stands a monument dedicated to St.Andrew, shaped as a small temple. As of the 15th century, the saint's head was kept inside St.Peter's.	the monument dedicated to St.Andrew

Very soon the towering monument dedicated to Giuseppe Garibaldi comes into sight through the trees on the other side of the wall, and you may happen to see also people leaning from the wall's edge: in fact the ground level on the inside is as high as the walls, having been considerably raised when the area became a public park (a description can be found in The Rioni section, Trastevere).

Immediately before the last bastion, on the side of the road, stands a monument dedicated to St.Andrew, shaped as a small temple. As of the 15th century, the saint's head was kept inside St.Peter's.

In the 19th century the relic was stolen, and later on found again on this very spot: pope Pius IX had a monument stood here, dated 1848, in memory of the retrieval. The saint's head, though, is no longer in St.Peter's: in 1964 it was given back by pope Paul VI to Patras, the Greek city where the apostle came from, as a token of friendship towards the Greek Orthodox Church. Finally, after the last bend, the road opens up into a large crossing: this is the spot where the ancient Porta Aurelia stood, i.e. the gate located along the Aurelian Way, the main route that connected Rome to the north-western territories.	in the old cannon placements now birds build their nests

In the 19th century the relic was stolen, and later on found again on this very spot: pope Pius IX had a monument stood here, dated 1848, in memory of the retrieval.
The saint's head, though, is no longer in St.Peter's: in 1964 it was given back by pope Paul VI to Patras, the Greek city where the apostle came from, as a token of friendship towards the Greek Orthodox Church.

Finally, after the last bend, the road opens up into a large crossing: this is the spot where the ancient Porta Aurelia stood, i.e. the gate located along the Aurelian Way, the main route that connected Rome to the north-western territories.

the ancient Porta Aurelia, or San Pancrazio (from a map of Rome dated 1625)	In time it was renamed Porta San Pancrazio after the nearby church of St.Pancras [map ref. 10]. Remains of the Roman wall were still standing here in the early 1600s, when Urban VIII took them down and had a second Porta San Pancrazio built just outside the site of the ancient one (see the pictures on both sides).	Porta San Pancrazio built by Urban VIII (arrow), enclosed between two bastions (from a map dated 1676)

In time it was renamed Porta San Pancrazio after the nearby church of St.Pancras [map ref. 10]. Remains of the Roman wall were still standing here in the early 1600s, when Urban VIII took them down and had a second Porta San Pancrazio built just outside the site of the ancient one (see the pictures on both sides).

In February 1849, the people of Rome revolted against the papal authority and upthrew Pius IX, establishing the short-living Roman Republic; only five months later, in July of the same year, a violent conflict took place in this area, between the Roman army, mostly formed by civilians and volunteers, and the Zouaves, French mercenary troops whom the pope had meanwhile called upon.

the new Porta San Pancrazio (19th century)	The damage caused by the battle to the environment was considerable, up to the point that also the gate built by Urban VIII had to be taken down and replaced by a third Porta San Pancrazio, built by architect Virginio Vespignani in the shape of a stout square archway, dated 1854, which now stands in the middle of the crossing. The nice coats of arms that hang from its front are those of Pius IX and Urban VIII.	coat of arms of Pius IX (Mastai Ferretti)

In recent times, the bastion on the left side of the gate was cut, so to let traffic flow more easily.

One more tangible memory of the battle - others will be seen, further on - are the ruins of the villa called *Il Vascello* ("The Galleon"), about 50 metres or yards off the gate, on the right hand side of via San Pancrazio [map ref. g]. Built in 1663, the villa was shaped as an actual war galleon, and also had fancy fountains, deforming mirrors, and other bizzarre features typical of the Baroque age. Following the clash of 1849, the main building was so damaged that there was no solution left but to demolish it, and the scars left by the artillery on the villa's front, facing the road, as well as along the rest of the wall, are still today very evident. Back to Porta San Pancrazio, on the left, just by entrance of the public park that now stretches on the inner side of the wall, stands a curious feature: the lonely façade of a house in late Renaissance style ...but without the actual building.	the scars of the battle on the villa's front

One more tangible memory of the battle - others will be seen, further on - are the ruins of the villa called Il Vascello ("The Galleon"), about 50 metres or yards off the gate, on the right hand side of via San Pancrazio [map ref. g]. Built in 1663, the villa was shaped as an actual war galleon, and also had fancy fountains, deforming mirrors, and other bizzarre features typical of the Baroque age. Following the clash of 1849, the main building was so damaged that there was no solution left but to demolish it, and the scars left by the artillery on the villa's front, facing the road, as well as along the rest of the wall, are still today very evident.

Back to Porta San Pancrazio, on the left, just by entrance of the public park that now stretches on the inner side of the wall, stands a curious feature: the lonely façade of a house in late Renaissance style ...but without the actual building.

the scars of the battle on the villa's front

Michelangelo's house	This is known as the "House of Michelangelo" [map ref. h], as it is held by tradition as the house where the famous artist dwelt in Rome. The historical truth, though, is that, as of 1531, Michelangelo lived in Rome in Macel de' Corvi, a narrow lane located by the Capitolium Hill. In 1902, that district was subject to extensive demolition due to the making of the huge memorial monument for king Victori Emanuel II, and all the old houses were taken down. Among them was also the aforesaid one, whose façade was spared, not because the famous artist lived there (this is a legend), but simply because it was artistically interesting. It was first stood on one side of the staircase leading to Capitolium Square; then, in 1941, it was finally moved to the Janiculum hill, wehre it now covers a water reservoir.

Michelangelo's house

This is known as the "House of Michelangelo" [map ref. h], as it is held by tradition as the house where the famous artist dwelt in Rome. The historical truth, though, is that, as of 1531, Michelangelo lived in Rome in Macel de' Corvi, a narrow lane located by the Capitolium Hill. In 1902, that district was subject to extensive demolition due to the making of the huge memorial monument for king Victori Emanuel II, and all the old houses were taken down. Among them was also the aforesaid one, whose façade was spared, not because the famous artist lived there (this is a legend), but simply because it was artistically interesting. It was first stood on one side of the staircase leading to Capitolium Square; then, in 1941, it was finally moved to the Janiculum hill, wehre it now covers a water reservoir.