AURELIAN'S WALLS - part 2

From piazzale Labicano, two short diversions can be followed: Just round the left corner of the gate, where a large marble plaque remembers the restoration works and the discovery of Eurysaces's tomb by Gregory XVI, the wall joins a very interesting series of arches [map ref. c], running along the present via Statilia towards the Lateran: this is the remaining part of the ancient Nero's Aqueduct (Arcus Neroniani) that drew water from Claudius' arches, and carried it to the imperial palace on the Palatine hill.	*above and below left: Nero's aqueduct*

	The aqueduct can be followed for about 200 metres; by the crossing with via di Santa Croce in Gerusalemme it enters the grounds of Villa Wolkonsky, dwelling site of the British ambassador, where it becomes no longer accessible. On the opposite side of the crossing, though, take a look at some more interesting remains, behind an iron fencing: there are two roman tombs [map ref. d], dating back to the 1st century BC, with portraits of the dead in relief.

Back in piazzale Labicano, follow via Giolitti, opposite the gate: the road soon comes to the remains of a large hall [map ref. e], with a brick structure but originally covered with marble, dating to the 4th century AD. The name given to the site, Temple of Minerva Medica, is due to the local finding of a statue of goddess Minerva with a serpent, the symbol of medicine. Recent studies have proved that this site belonged to the Licinian Gardens, the grounds surrounding the mansion of the powerful Licinii family (a member of which became emperor in AD 308, and abdicated 15 year later); the so-called Temple of Minerva would have been its nymphaeum, a building full of plants, flowers, sculptures and fountains, dedicated to water nymphs. The hall had a high and wide vault (part of which can still be seen), that collapsed in the early 19th century. Old prints show us what it must have previously looked like.	the so-called Temple of Minerva Medica

In the corner of piazzale Labicano from where via Prenestina starts, a few metres before the tunnel under the railway, is the entrance to a small underground basilica [map ref. f], discovered in 1917, which dates back to the 1st century AD and belonged to a Neo-Pythagorean sect. This site is not open to the public, although applications for a permit can be made by Rome's Archaeological Government Office (Soprintendenza Archeologica di Roma, piazza Santa Maria Nova, 53). Due to its location, the basilica is perfectly preserved, with very fine decorations in relief.

Back again along the main route, the wall makes a bend towards the south, along via Casilina. Here once stood a further gate, named after Honorius, who had it built, which was taken down by pope Gregory XVI when Porta Maggiore was restored. Due to a private ground, we shortly lose sight of the wall for about 150 metres.

a stretch of Acqua Felice, built by Sixtus V

As soon as you come to the first crossing, the wall turns right on viale Castrense, where it is reached by another long sequence of arches [map ref. g] with a rather narrow span (about 2 metres in width). Here ran the important aqueduct built under Caligola and finished under Claudius, whence the name Aqua Claudia; it originally reached Porta Maggiore, as previously mentioned in part 2, but in the 3rd century AD the last arches by the gate were closed, in order to incorporate this structure into the city wall. In the late 16th century, pope Sixtus V altered and reused some of its remains for the making of his own aqueduct, Acqua Felice, whom these arches belong.
Now they can be followed on their left side, walking across the grounds of a nearby supermarket.

Back on viale Castrense, after another slight turn, the tall statues of St.John's basilica can be seen in the distance above the wall. A few metres further on, we come to another interesting building crossed by Aurelian's architects, the Amphitheatrum Castrensis [map ref. h].

the Amphitheatrum Castrensis from outside the walls; by the inner side stands the basilica of Santa Croce in Gerusalemme, whose belltower is visible

This was a real amphitheatre, made of bricks, used for games and shows, oval in shape as the Colosseum, although much smaller and less decorated than the latter. It was built at the beginning of the 3rd century AD, about fifty years before Aurelian's walls. Some of the columns that decorated the outer surface can, made of bricks as well, can be still seen. Unfortunately, the amphitheatre is not open to the public.

By a passage connecting viale Castrense with piazza Santa Croce in Gerusalemme, in the corner where the walls join the amphitheatre, on the inner side, is a tiny church [map ref. i] named Santa Maria del Buon Aiuto (Saint Mary of Good Help) after a pre-existing chapel which apparently used to receive generous offerings; pope Sixtus IV enlarged it in 1476, as mentioned by an old inscription over the door.

the Amphitheatrum Castrensis,
in a map of ancient Rome (1576)

the last stretch of wall before the Lateran, seen from the inside

Close to the amphitheatre, but opposite the church, stood the Sessorium: this was a huge mansion built in the 3rd century AD which became the emperors' dwelling site during the late imperial period (3rd-4th century). The only surviving fragments of the building [map ref. j] belong to a wide hall with an apse, standing in the grounds of the former Grenadier barracks (now a Grenadier corps museum), on the left of Santa Croce in Gerusalemme's basilica. The same basilica was, in fact, a part of the Sessorium which emperor Constantine's mother, Saint Helena, had turned into a Christian place of worship.
Keep following the inner side of the well preserved wall for about 300 metres, through a public garden. Here the ground level is rather higher than on the outside, as can be told from the narrow windows of some placements.

As soon as a large statue of St.Francis of Assisi comes into sight, piazza di Porta San Giovanni is finally reached. Cross again the wall, to the outer side.
In the middle of the vast square, among several new passages opened in the early years of the 20th century, stands Porta San Giovanni [map ref. 6]: this is a "modern" door, which pope Gregory XIII had built in 1574 by one of Michelangelo's apprentices, Jacopo (Giacomo) Del Duca, from Sicily.

the wall with Porta San Giovanni, spanning piazzale Appio

Unlike more ancient gates, this one has a much less military aspect; in fact, together with Porta del Popolo and Porta Pia it belongs to the group of Renaissance gates. Its archway, whose frame is decorated with a fake ashlar work, and the attic, shaped as a balcony, mimic the doorway of a 16th century noble building, while the keystone features a curious moor's head.

It stood along via Campana (as stated by the inscription), a road which ran towards the south, along the direction now matching via Appia Nuova.

the keystone of the gate's arch

In piazzale Appio the second leg of the tour ends. For those who wish to leave the tour now, in front of the gate, on both sides of the square, are the stairs leading to San Giovanni subway station (line A).